ROC Immigration: 1, Shannon: 0

Goddamn you, Los Angeles Taiwanese consulate.

I knew the visa process back in June went way too smoothly. It just took three months for me to feel and experience the ramifications.

Waking up for the last time in Taipei for awhile, I jumped out of bed at 5:30 am, brushed my teeth, and got myself together. I stumbled my way out to the living room with my luggage and turned on CNN, and Alice came out at about 6:00 am to help me get breakfast (she’s so sweet!). She prepared me some fresh fruit, and I grabbed a bagel before the taxi arrived. At around 6:30, I said my thank-yous and goodbyes and made my way to Chiang Kai-Shek International Airport.

John, Alice, and I in front of their apartment before I board the taxi.

Upon entering the airport, I was immediately overwhelmed by various queues. I happened to step in the United Business Class line when in reality I should have been in coach. However, the lady working the ticket counter was extremely nice and said that as long as I was already there, she might as well check me in. (The sweet, naïve, lost American college student thing really worked for me in this case.) Good thing, too, because I looked across to the coach line across the room and it seemed to go forever. I threw my two massive pieces of check-in luggage on the conveyor belt, waiting for her to print my boarding pass, at which point, I heard her snickering with the other flight attendant.

I got uneasy vibes. ‘I think your visa has expired,’ she said.

Hah, the Taiwanese are funny people.

Only I noticed she wasn't laughing or smiling.

What? It can’t be!

‘It says you are only here for 60 days. You have overstayed by 16 days.’

But that’s what the Taiwanese consulate gave me! I gave them my letter! They said I was good to go!

I explained my situation to her, but this was obviously an issue larger than her that involved immigration. She requested I follow her to another room, which happened to be at the end of a long and winding hall, something reminiscent of crime and espionage movies. I was not in a good mood.

Waiting for me was a bad-ass looking immigration officer sitting at a sterile metal table in an empty room. I don’t think there was a humorous bone in his body.

Oh shit.

I suddenly felt very very sick.

Thankfully the nice lady was still with me, so that calmed me a little bit. I was then informed I could get out of the situation by paying a $3000NT fee, and then I could be my way. Thank goodness for that.

I asked if credit cards were okay, and the bad-ass dude said no. I then asked the United attendant if there was an ATM nearby, and she said there was in the corner. I should withdraw my money and then hurry right back, she said.

I practically sprinted over to the ATM machine, telling myself everything would be okay whether I actually believed that or not. I got to the ATM at which point I saw a picture of an animated man with Zzzzs coming out of his mouth on the screen, which implied that the machine was broken. Aaaaaah!

I walked a bit further, and found another ATM in the airport post office. However, after trying three times, it didn’t accept my card and automatically cancelled the transaction after I input my pin number. This has been a problem during my entire duration in Taiwan, as the only ATMs that I could get money from were the ones located in the MRT stations, particularly Kunyang? Why? I don’t know. I suppose it’s for 'security reasons,' but I the ATM was making me anything but secure. I would sure like to know where the security is of not being able to withdraw money thousands of miles away from your home country.

Dammit, dammit, dammit.

By now 10-15 minutes had passed, and I was already taking longer than I had hoped. Finally I saw a money exchange booth, and thank heavens I had about $200 US cash with me. After standing in a rather lengthy line, I got my $3000NT and rushed back over to the aforementioned scary movie-like office. When I returned, the immigration officer was in exactly the position I had left him. He hadn’t moved, and my passport was open on the stone cold table. I entered and he looked up at me, expressionless, as I practically threw the money at him. I half-expected Colin Farrell or Denzel Washington or some other Hollywood action star to pop out from the room and shout, ‘You’re on candid camera!’ But no such moment came.

Upon receiving my passport, I made my way back over to United check-in to get my boarding pass. In the process, I noticed my passport had been stamped with a note that I would not be granted another visa exception to the ROC within one year, through Sept. 4, 2007. Now I’m on an official list of offenders to the ROC government. Awesome.

Daddy asked me if that meant I wouldn’t be granted another visa, and I said I believe I could get another visa, but I just can’t overstay again. He then asked if I would be jailed if it happened again. I really don’t know the consequences, but I would prefer not to find out.

I rushed over to the gate area, and after making it successfully through two security checks, I apparently failed to pass the third. I had brought a large Nalgene water bottle to Taiwan, and I had emptied it out and placed it in my backpack to comply with the new United guidelines of no fluids in carry-ons. (Apparently that wasn’t good enough, as I needed to check my bottle, too.) Of course, the workers didn’t speak English, and it took many minutes before I understood that they were telling me I could put it in one of my other carry-ons and then check that carry-on. I was confused because I already had 2 checked bags, but they said that was okay and I wouldn’t have to pay extra. I got a special tag for the people at the gate to check my carry-on, and I’m praying to God they did. I'm now at SFO, so I guess I won’t know until I get to San Diego. Cross your fingers for me.

At this rate, if I make it to San Diego in one piece, it will be quite the feat.

Xin Lan and the City

The lasts of things tend to bring out the introspective, analytical nature in me, just as it probably would in everyone. In between packing and planning the next 24 hours today, I thought about my time here. What was my perspective of this place before coming, upon arrival, and now? Will my friends and family view me as a different person? Will I view me as a different person? Will I notice changes in myself? Have I gotten so used to things in Taipei that I will find San Diego and California life a bit peculiar?

In contemplating the answers to such inquiries and realizing I have had somewhat of an audience along the way, I found myself starting to identify with a present-day Carrie Bradshaw (no, not in that way), reflecting upon the nuances and eccentricities of society through the lens of a first-person narrative, but sans the boundless collection of Manolo Blahnik stilettos that would make Imelda Marcos swoon and a wardrobe that would impress even the Prada-adorned Devil herself.

While I expected my last day here to be rather unexciting, it took a fun twist at the end. I had originally been invited on a bus ride with the international scholars, but due to unexpected lack of space, Alice informed me a few days ago that there wouldn't be room. I thus originally had plans, but these were cancelled semi last-minute. I started to go to Taipei 101 today to ride the elevator to the top which i have yet to do, but it was ridiculously cloudy, and I didn't particularly want to pay for a pricey ticket only to go up dozens of floors and be unable to see anything. Instead, I stayed home and took a nap.

John came home for a little bit and reserved my taxi for tomorrow morning's airport ride, and then proceeded to inform me he was leaving for a dinner party. A few moments later he invited me along as a sort of farewell for me. I jumped at the chance, and I'm glad I did, because I had a fabulous time.

The two of us left the apartment and met Alice and the others at a famous dim sum restaurant in Taipei. It hadn't been raining in Nankang but it was absolutely pouring in the vicinity of the restaurant. Neither John nor I had brought an umbrella. In fact, I usually do but had already packed mine, and I figured the odds of rain were slim to none. And ten weeks ago I would have said I was genuinely surprised. But now? Nothing surprises me.

The restaurant is an extremely popular one and every table in the joint was packed, with a line of people outside waiting for tables. We were served dumplings of all sorts, in addition to some qing cai and various soups. Dessert consisted of taro dumplings and a red bean cake, both of which I am a big fan. Throughout dinner, I talked extensively with the other guests, who, as John later informed me, are all experts in their respective fields. I happened to be wearing my UCSD Cycling shirt, which I've noticed in many situations is a great conversation starter--who'd have thought? So we talked about cycling, their universities, my studies, their time in Taipei, and all sorts of things. (It actually turns out Derek, the one in the orange shirt, lived in La Jolla 25 years ago when he worked at Scripps and rode to campus on a one-speed. Completely out of the blue we started talking about inside and outside Torrey repeats!) I think this somewhat solves the mystery as to why I never have any fun partying and clubbing with other twentysomethings. The crowd that I have the most fun with is middle-aged academics. Is this completely weird? If so, so be it.

So half a dozen cups of tea later, dinner concluded. The itinerary had included a trip to Longshan Temple and the Huaxi Night Market afterwards, but given the sensitive weather situation and the fatigue of some of the guests, they decided to return to their hotel. John and I took a taxi home, and now I'm finishing up the last touches of packing (and by 'packing' I mean smashing and resmashing things into my suitcases so they no longer resemble their original shape).

All of us post-dinner with full and happy stomachs.

I caught a glimpse of the dim-sum makers hard at work.

Hmmm, what's that green stuff?

So now I have exactly twelve hours until my departure back home. In a mere two-and-a-half months, I've experienced highs and lows and everything in between.

With that, I close with a thought from Carrie that sums everything perfectly:

"As we drive along this road called life, occasionally a gal will fnd herself a little lost. And when that happens, I guess she has to let go of the coulda, shoulda, woulda, buckle up and just keep going."

Conference: Day One

Dude, where's my brain?

(Just in case you didn't know, that is an allusion to a movie. I don't really speak like that...at least in writing, anyway.)

Never at the end of a single day have I learned so much while simulatenously feeling so ignorant.

I arose at 6 am and headed over to Academia Sinica around 6:45 to catch a ride with some lab mates to the International Stem Cell Conference at Taipei Medical University in the vicinity of Taipei City Hall and Taipei 101. When I arrived, most of the lab was already there working hard and ready to check people in. I got a spiffy bag and program of the weekend, then headed up shortly thereafter to the top floor to listen to opening remarks and witness the commencement of the day.

The day was intense.

Philip and lab worker (whose English name I don't know!), but she is going to San Francisco in September to study English.

The lab hard at work checking people in throughout the day. But I got out of it, probably because I would be of absolutely no help.

Vivian (post-doc) and Miss Wu.

Silly lab. I don't know how they can be all smiles at 7 am.

Andy, Ping, Me, Chen, and Vivian before the start of the conference.

John gives the opening remarks of the conference.

This is what the day's schedule entailed. If one went to everything, he or she was sure to be tired by the end of the day.

9:00-9:40 Opening Remarks

9:40 Plenary Session 1: 'Ying and Tang of Mesenchymal Stem Cells' with Paul Simmons, PhD, President, International Society for Stem Cell Research

10:55-11:40 'Hibernation of Hemtopoietic Stem Cells in the Bone Marrow Niche: Role of Lipid Raft Clustering and Niche Signals' with Hiromitsu Nakauchi, MD, PhD, University of Tokyo

2:00-2:45 Plenary Session 2: 'Making a Brain: A Molecular Dissection of Neural Induction' with Claudio Stern, PhD, University of London, UK

2:45-3:30 'How To Live Without DNA Methylation' with Richard Meehan, PhD, Western General Hospital, Edinburgh, UK

3:50-5:50 Two Concurrent Sessions (Session A: Embryonic Stem Cells and Somatic Cell Nuclear Transfer or Session B: Somatic Stem Cells) with 4 presentations each

7:00-9:00 Conference Dinner

I made it to about 3:30 okay, but after that I was kind of beat. Exhausted and overheated, I decided I had to walk around during part of the concurrent sessions, and possibly return if I felt better or more energized. I went back down to the first floor, where many of my lab mates were still working. I sat down and talked for a bit, then discovered Chen studying vocabulary words for the GREs. Some of the words even I have never heard of, so I don't know how on earth he is going to remember them all. I am impressed by his efforts, though. Before you knew it, I was testing him, and when he forgot the definition (which was most often the case), I tried to give him a Chinese definition. That actually really helped me practice my language skills as well.

One particularly amusing incident occurred when I got to the 'D' words.

I had explained that 'dis' or 'de' prefixes generally mean 'not,' or 'to lower' or the opposite of something.

I got to 'depreciate' and then Chen and Zhuo logically thought it would be the opposite of 'appreciate.'

'To take away a thank-you?' Zhuo asked.

'No,' Chen said. 'It means to ridicule or criticize.'

What are the chances I would pick a word that happens to be one of the exceptions to the rule?

'No,' I said. 'Think in terms of economics (zai jingji shang).'

That obviously confused them even more, and then I explained. I think that just deflated their confidence even more.

After 90 minutes or so of teaching and bearing witness to their frustration (I don't blame them, I've been there), everyone left for the conference dinner commencing at 7 pm at Taipei 101. In a fancy ballroom with fancy chairs and tables, the dinner consisted of many different dishes. And the best part? It was totally free!

Ping, Chen, and Alan at our free swanky dinner in the 5th floor ballroom of Taipei 101.

Andy, Ping, Alan, Chen, Zhuo, Me, and Cherry.

Cherry shaking her head at the immaturiy of our table.

Table 10 and friends.

Following dinner, I caught a ride home with John and Alice, but we first escorted all the international speakers by van back to their hotels. In the process, I chatted with a few of the speakers, the longest conversation of which I had with a cardiologist who is a professor and researcher at Harvard Medical School. Coincidentally, he had recently been offered a position at UCSD and was prepared to make the move, but at the last minute decided to stay in Boston because his wife's job situation never came through to transfer to the West Coast.

In the car, he was telling me about the admissions process, and he got to the part about decision-making, and said, 'Oh, I probably shouldn't be telling you this.'

I casually brushed it off, joking, 'I smell a coin toss,' but secretly my ears were as wide open as they could possibly get.

He then told me that everyone who is on the borderline is reviewed by two groups separately and the theory is those applicants who rank highly in both groups (overlapping) are at the top of the list. Then he told me that it's amazing how the two groups statsitically never ever agree, at which point there is lots of arguing and phone calls to references. He also told me that he sometimes made the phone calls to acceptees late in the application process, and they cheerfully responded Harvard was their only acceptance. Go figure. I guess that really is proof that the process is completely random, which is why you apply anywhere and everywhere you possibly can.

After dropping off the speakers, the three of us returned to the apartment completely zonked. I went to my room and did a little packing, but I still have a lot to do, including laundry. And I need to get up at 6 again tomorrow, so I'd best be getting to bed. Nite!

Goodbye To You

Shoes. Can't live with 'em, can't live without 'em.

Well, I suppose you can live with them if you don't need to pack them. But it's cruel that you can manage to fit everything in your suitcase and jam the zipper shut in triumph, only to look up and realize you have three pairs of sneakers unaccounted for and staring at you, mocking your incompetence.

Dammit.

After today I will no longer return to this lab, at least for awhile anyway. I presented Miss Wu and Zhuo with I-House mugs filled with chocolates as a thank-you for all they have done for me. I am meeting Miss Wu at an astonishingly early 7 am tomorrow, and we will drive over and meet everyone else at the International Stem Cell Conference at Taipei Medical University. It is a two-day endeavor with, from what I can tell, some of the most brilliant minds on stem cell research coming from all over the world. John is giving the opening and closing remarks, and other than that, it's two days of presentations and poster sessions on all things stem cell, somatic and engineering and otherwise. Why do I think my head is going to hurt very very badly when this is all said and done?

The main lab walkway.

Seminar room where I gave my TGF-B presentation.

Experiment room with hoods...

..where I simultaneously learned as well as screwed up.

Vicinity around my desk.

NAKED

Now that I have your attention...

The anecdote of the day is drawn from tonight's material. I returned home slightly before Alice and John this evening, and wolfed down some food and hopped into the shower. As I sat in the bathtub, I heard the front locks being undone, but then I didn't hear anyone come in.

Over the last few days, they have seemingly had issues unlocking the front door after I have locked it. I have no idea how I could possibly lock a door in a wrong way, but apparently I have undiscovered talents.

As I lay in the warm water, I heard more rattling, but no voices. Finally, I heard the doorbell, not once, but twice.

I leapt out of the bathtub in a whirlwind of chaos, trying to dispel myself of any and all water droplets still attached to my body.

Next I heard the phone ring. It was undoubtedly John and Alice trying to get in, and hoping to alert me in any possible way.

'I'm coming!' I yelled from inside a locked bathroom down the hallway, wondering as soon as I did why on earth I even bothered since there was no way they could possibly hear me.

I managed to throw on my PJ shorts, and wrapped a towel around my upper half as quickly as I could. I sprinted to the door and unlocked it, and sure enough, John and Alice were standing there with briefcases in hand and me dripping everywhere.

'Oh, I see!' Alice exclaimed, at which point we all started laughing.

However, I couldn't stick around for the hellos, as I still desperately needed wringing-out.

So the professional relationship filled with intimidation and fear I spoke of a week ago? That train has long left the station.

In other news, I did not have to go luggage shopping today because Alice offered to lend me one of her carry-ons for my trip home. This delighted me to no end, as I know for sure it will fit carry-on regulations and I don't have to eyeball estimates, I don't have to haggle, and I can save money! After I get back to San Diego, I will simply drop the suitcase off at her house in La Jolla, and she can pick it up the next time she travels back in September.

I will say with caution that my departure logistics are actually shaping up smoothly.

My 'Hood

Since my days here are rapidly winding down, I wanted to make sure to take pictures of my surroundings. I actually meant to do this my first week, but my helter-skelter lifestyle which lacked toilet paper and the ability to order food took over. But I have not forgotten, so without further ado, I present my academic home away from home.

View of Academia Sinica entrance across the street.

Main Academia Sinica sign.

Quite possibly the coolest thing ever. This is looking down from the fourth floor, where my lab is located. The lines you see are outlines of a badminton court. A few nights that I have stayed light, I have come out to see folks who brought their own net engaging in an intense match. UCSD, take note, we need this.

The Academia Sinica motorcycle parking lot. You will find a lot more of these than cars, as virtuall every student has one. They're cheaper to fuel, park, and maintain, and it's a lot easier to zip around town than with a car.

The special lane leading from the aforementioned motorcycle parking lot to the main street, Academia Sinica Rd.

The Biomedical Sciences Building, home of the stem cell lab and many others.

The entrance to my lab.

The Institute of Cellular and Organismic Biology (I think). This is where John's office is located and is next door to the Biomedical Sciences Building.

A view of a lane on campus leading up to the gym and activities center.

A tai chi sculture that is prominently displayed in the park.

More sculptures, this time two tin men sitting on a bench in a pond. I don't know why, but I like it.

Zoomed-out view of above.

View down the street with back to the activities center, as if I am heading home.

Not to be stereotypical, but these look like rice paddies. I'm not sure though, since it's in the middle of campus.

Lotus pond on campus, which gives a slightly serene touch. Not like the ones at the Xiaonanmen Botanical Gardens, though.

And just for laughs, apparently not everyone in China gets the traditional ancient wisdom passed down thousands of years from their ancestors.

T-7 Days

Well, not much news to report. Zhuo and I were going to further his experiment today, but he decided to change methodology to include PCR and he needed new materials, which he ordered yesterday and probably won't be here for a few days. Once the needed materials come, I might help him run a PCR (which I have previously performed but have hardly mastered). If not, it's no big deal to me since I at least have been introduced to it before and am familiar with the theory and concepts, even if my execution may be far from perfect.

I'm actually really looking forward to the International Stem Cell Conference at the end of the week. How much of a nerd does this make me? (Actually, I guess the more accurate question would be: how much more of a nerd does this make me than before?) Perhaps I'm looking forward to it because it's a change of pace and scenery. Maybe it's because I'll get to meet brilliant people from all over the glove. Or maybe it has something to do with dinner on the fifth floor of Taipei 101 on Friday night.

Until then, I'll make attempts to slowly pack up and avoid the last-minute rush, but I figure that like all my good intentions, they will just get lost in the chaos and I will end up doing exactly what I want to avoid--mashing and cramming and panicking into the wee hours before my departure. Seeing as there is absolutely no way I can fit everything I have purchased into the luggage I have brought, I must also find a place where I can purchase a cheap piece of carry-on luggage. And this will work providing that I can fit all my extras into one extra carry-on.

Oh, the dilemmas.